TracTuff RBB/ RBC Swirl Pot & Overflow

$629.95

Fabricated Product

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Deck Height
Connection Type

Due to Space -16 Female ORB – Billet Option Only Available for 3 and 4 O’Clock Outlet Position

Outlet Position

-16 Female ORB – Billet Only Available for 3 O’Clock and Close to OEM Outlet Positions

Heater Outlet Bung

There are ONLY two places I can add a heater outlet bung. One is on the base of the swirl pot and the other is on the side (2 or 3 o’clock). On the base is only available on the taller deck height 2.4L and will require that I move both cylinders up a bit to make the connection possible without hitting the bellhousing. The use of scatter shield is NOT an option.

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TracTuff RBB/ RBC Swirl Pot & Overflow
TracTuff RBB/ RBC Swirl Pot & Overflow - Image 2
TracTuff RBB/ RBC Swirl Pot & Overflow - Image 3

Description

One of the most common questions I get with swirl pots is, “Is an overflow still necessary?” The answer is yes, unless you are okay with a mess if the cooling system expands beyond the available empty space in the swirl pot. The overflow’s job is to catch that fluid and hold it until the system cools down enough that it can be sucked back into the system.

This swirl pot starts with a beautifully machined 6061-T6 flange that incorporates a -16 ORB outlet port and a 1/2″ NPT heater port. The swirl pot and overflow tank bases and lids are also billet aluminum and incorporate a billet radiator cap bung and a vented filler cap. The two tanks are separated by a billet spacer and a plinth (an extra layer of material), essentially doubling the weld’s footprint and spreading the load between the connections. The outlet can be moved to suit your needs and can be configured for either standard hose (1.25″ OD), -16 male flare, -16 Dyme Pro Series, or -16 Female ORB.

I do not recommend this product for any kind of racing! Due to the weight and despite my attempts to beef it up at all connection points, the product has still had a few failures. If you drive hard… purchase the swirl pot and overflow separately. Please understand I’m trying to manage your expectations; I’m not shitting on my own product. If it were that bad… I’d just stop making them. The reality is that people sometimes do things with parts that go against the manufacturer’s recommendations (as is the case here).

The hardware kit includes four M8 socket head bolts and a pair of o-rings. The swirl pot and overflow are welded so that they sit level when bolted to an engine leaned back 15°.

NOTE: The 3 o’clock outlet position will NOT WORK with the K20Z3 shift linkage on a 2.0L.

The cap bung has a 1/16″ NPT port for connection to an overflow and uses early model Honda radiator caps, such as an 88′-91′ Civic/ CRX or 90′-93′ Integra. If you are using AN lines, I recommend designing the upper radiator hose with some droop/give so the engine’s movement does not push/pull on the radiator and fatigue any parts.

A 1/8″ NPT port is located on the bottom of the overflow cylinder. If you are going to connect the overflow to the nipple provided with the swirl pot, you will need to purchase a 1/8″ NPT to 5/16″ slip hose fitting. However, if you plan to plumb that connection with any other type of fittings… you will need a 1/16″ NPT fitting for the swirl pot and a 1/8″ NPT fitting for the overflow.

Due to the swirl pot’s body location, the 90° heater hose fitting I usually include with this flange does not fit. If you would like to retain heat, I can weld a -10 ORB bung to the bottom of the swirl pot for an additional $30.

Photo Courtesy of nate_k_ready

Additional information

Weight 7 lbs
Dimensions 12 × 12 × 10 in

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