TracTuff PRB/ PRC Swirl Pot & Overflow

Description

One of the most common questions I get from customers who are interested in a swirl pot is whether or not an overflow is still necessary. The answer is yes… and usually the next question is “can you make a clean combo” or “can you make something attached so I don’t have to run a line elsewhere”.

Here is a modified version of the V1SF swirl pot for the K20A, K20A2, K20A3, K20Z1, and K24A1 cylinder heads, where the pot has been moved back a bit so the added overflow lines up with a mounting point at the rear of the cylinder. Due to the additional weight… I strongly urge those of you who race competitively not to choose this product!

Like the V1SF, the swirl pot begins with a beautifully machined flange that has been CNC-machined from US-milled 6061-T6 aluminum. The flange is machined with a -8 ORB water bypass port and an OEM o-ring groove. You can choose to add a sensor port directly to the top of the flange (near the logo) or the side of the flange (under the outlet). The outlet can be clocked to your needs and configured for either standard hose (1.25″ OD) or -16 male flare.

The hardware kit includes a -8 ORB to 11/16″ water bypass hose fitting, a stainless hose clamp, two M6 socket head bolts, and a Genuine Honda gasket. The tank is welded so that it sits level when bolted to an engine leaned back 15° (OEM position). The intake and exhaust cam sensor must be swapped out for the angled version found on the K24’s.

NOTE: The cap bung has a 1/16″ NPT port for connection to the overflow and uses early model Honda radiator caps, such as an 88′-91′ Civic/ CRX or 90′-93′ Integra. The 1/8″ NPT overflow port is located on the bottom of the overflow tank.

If you are using AN line, I recommend designing the upper radiator hose so that there is droop/ give… so the engine’s movement does not push/ pull on the radiator and fatigue any parts.

Photo Courtesy of rhd_jay