Description

One of the most common questions I get with swirl pots is, “Is an overflow still necessary?” The answer is yes, unless you are interested in one of my “race”- style swirl pots that use a header tank to handle not only air separation but also expansion. Even with the header tank incorporated, the system may expand beyond the fixed empty volume we set aside in the header tank. When it does… where does that fluid go?

This swirl pot starts with a beautifully machined 6061-T6 flange that incorporates a -16 ORB outlet port and a 1/2″ NPT heater port. The swirl pot and overflow tank bases and lids are also billet aluminum and incorporate a billet radiator cap bung and a vented filler cap. The two tanks are separated by a billet spacer and a plinth (an extra layer of material), essentially doubling the weld’s footprint and spreading the load between the connections. The outlet can be moved to suit your needs and can be configured for either standard hose (1.25″ OD), -16 male flare, -16 Dyme Pro Series, or -16 Female ORB.

I do not recommend this product for any kind of racing! Due to the weight and despite my attempts to beef it up at all connection points, the product has still had a few failures. If you drive hard… purchase the swirl pot and overflow separately. Please understand I’m trying to manage your expectations, I’m not shitting on my own product. If it were that bad… I’d just stop making them. The reality is that people sometimes do things with parts that go against the manufacturer’s recommendations (as is the case here). Out of the three or four dozen I have made, I have only heard of three having any issues… and those three were pretty much race cars! Purchase a swirl pot and overflow separately if you drive hard.

The hardware kit includes four M8 socket head bolts, a 1/2″ NPT plug, and a pair of o-rings. The swirl pot and overflow are welded so that they sit level when bolted to an engine leaned back 15°. A 1/8″ NPT port is located on the bottom of the overflow cylinder.

NOTE: The 3 o’clock outlet position will NOT WORK with the K20Z3 shift linkage on a 2.0L.

The cap bung has a 1/16″ NPT port for connection to an overflow and uses early model Honda radiator caps, such as an 88′-91′ Civic/ CRX or 90′-93′ Integra. If you are using AN lines, I recommend designing the upper radiator hose with some droop/give so the engine’s movement does not push/pull on the radiator and fatigue any parts.

Due to the swirl pot’s body location, the 90° heater hose fitting I usually include with this flange does not fit. If you would like to retain heat, I can weld a -10 ORB bung to the bottom of the swirl pot for an additional $30. Also, the space between the swirl pot and the flange makes the two forward-most mounting bolts a bit challenging to reach without the right tools. If you don’t already own one, you may want to add a 6mm Stubby L-Key.

Photo Courtesy of nate_k_ready