Description
The OG! This was my very first design for the K20A, K20A2, K20A3, K20Z1, and K24A1 cylinder heads.
I prefer this version if you have the space, because the outlet is far enough back to make hose routing a little less stressful on you as well as the product. If the product is being used in a harsh environment, I recommend you add the plinth option to help spread the load/ weight and vibration on the bracket, as well as help fight some of the tugging force from bad upper hose routing. The outlet itself can be configured for a standard hose (1.25″ OD) or -16 male flare.
The swirl pot begins with a beautifully machined flange that has been CNC-machined from US-milled 6061-T6 aluminum. The flange is machined with a -8 ORB water bypass port and an OEM o-ring groove. You can choose to add a sensor port directly to the top of the flange (near the logo) or the side of the flange (under the outlet). The outlet can be clocked to your needs and configured for either standard hose (1.25″ OD) or -16 male flare.
The hardware kit includes two M6 socket head bolts, a water bypass hose fitting, and a Genuine Honda gasket. The swirl pot is welded so that it sits level when bolted to an engine leaned back 15° (OEM positions). The intake cam sensor must be swapped out for the angled version found on the K24’s.
NOTE: The cap bung has a 1/16″ NPT port for connection to the overflow and uses early model Honda radiator caps, such as an 88′-91′ Civic/ CRX or 90′-93′ Integra. If you are using AN line, I recommend designing the upper radiator hose so that there is droop/ give… so the engine’s movement does not push/ pull on the radiator and fatigue any parts.
Photo Courtesy of pgkxmoe

Additional information
| Weight | 3 lbs |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | 10 × 8 × 8 in |
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