Description
It’s not a swirl tank; it may look like one, but it isn’t. This is the little brother to the swirl tank, the fill pot! The inlet/outlet configuration doesn’t actively separate air like the wrapped, staggered inlet/outlet on a swirl pot, so the fill pot is easier and cheaper to make. So if you just want a fill point that does a slightly better job catching passing air than a filler neck, this is for you!
This fill pot starts with a beautifully machined 6061-T6 flange that incorporates a -16 ORB outlet port and a 1/2″ NPT heater port. You can add any number of accessory bung options to any open space on the tank. The outlet itself can be configured for a standard hose (1.25″ OD) or -16 male flare.
The hardware kit includes four M8 socket head bolts, a 90° heater hose fitting, a 1/2″ NPT plug, and a pair of O-rings for the “street” option, or four M8 socket head bolts and a pair of O-rings for the “race” option. The fill pot is welded so that it sits level when bolted to an engine leaned back 15° (OEM option) or leaned forward 8° (Gangster Lean engine mount option).
The space between the fill pot and the flange makes the two forward-most mounting bolts a bit hard to reach without the right tools. If you don’t already own one, consider adding a 6mm Stubby L-Key.
NOTE: The 3 o’clock outlet position will NOT WORK with the K20Z3 shift linkage on a 2.0L.
The cap bung has a 1/16″ NPT port for overflow connection and uses early-model Honda radiator caps, such as an 88′-91′ Civic/CRX or 90′-93′ Integra. If you are using AN lines, I recommend designing the upper radiator hose with droop/give so the engine’s movement doesn’t push/pull on the radiator and fatigue any parts.
Additional information
| Weight | 3 lbs |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | 10 × 10 × 8 in |






