Thank you for your interest in TracTuff products and/ or services! If you are on this page, I assume you have questions about the product, its options, or how to buy. The questions asked and answered here are a collection from years past and I expect it to grow in time. If you have a specific question that isn't answered in the products description, nor covered here, please send that question to me in an email. If its used... I'll send you a coupon code for a future purchase or if you are a repeat customer, you can ask for a credit that can be accumulated (no limits).
Q: Where are you located?
- A: Upland, California.
Q: Do you work on vehicles?
- A: No, not at this time.
Q: Do you allow "Will Call" order pick ups?
- A: No, not at this time.
Q: Do you take phone calls?
- A: No, not normally. Business has grown to the point where there are days where nothing would get done because EVERYONE wants to talk. I am a one man operation and I must regulate how much customer service I can give and when I can give it. If you have read the FAQ's and the product(s) description and you still need help, you can submit an email. If I deem that it is best to speak over the phone, I will volunteer my number and we can arrange a time to talk.
Q: What are your business hours?
- A: My official hours are 7:30am to 5:30pm PST, Monday through Friday. Despite social media activity, these are the only hours customers should EXPECT answers to phone calls, texts, emails, direct messages, and/ or personal messages. I am a husband and father to three and have a very busy life outside of work. If you get a response after hours or on weekends... consider yourself lucky! This is an exception and NOT a standard. Understand that I have a social life too, and just because you see that I am active on social media does NOT mean you are entitled to any type response during off hours.
Q: What is the shipping cutoff?
- A: First Class and Priority orders must be submitted by 12:00 noon PST (11:00am for Express) to leave the same day. Most non-fabricated products are on the shelf and ready to ship, only a few fabricated items fall into this category, so if its welded... expect to be put on a wait list.
Q: What is the current wait for fabricated or custom parts?
- A: ETA's constantly change... I strongly recommend that you inquire at the time you are placing your order. In 2019 the average wait was 2 weeks. This year has been very busy and ETA's have fluctuated between 3-5 weeks..
Q: Do you make custom parts?
- A: Yes, I make custom stuff using the parts found on this website, regularly. I am only interested in jobs/ products that are consistent with what I do... so if you can think something up that uses stuff I already make, I'm very much interested. My Instagram account shows many universal and non Honda/ Acura products if you would like to browse. Many of those products will likely never make it onto the website.
Filler Necks/ Fill Pots/ Swirl Pots
- A: A filler neck is just a water neck that has a fabricated vertical filler tube with a radiator cap bung welded to it. Filler necks are popular inexpensive additions to cooling systems that either don't have a fill point or where the fill point is NOT the highest point in the cooling system.
- A: A fill pot is just a fancier version of the filler neck. Instead of a vertical tube being welded to the water necks horizontal outlet, a cylinder is fabricated, which interrupts the flow of water (essentially asking the coolant to jump from the entry of the tank to the exit of the tank) which slightly improves the products ability to intercept and collect passing air. The small bump in volume as well as the ability to add sensor bungs and/ or accessory ports is a nice bonus. Many like the price point and flexibility of moving the outlet to suite their needs.
- A: A swirl pot is a much fancier version of the fill pot. Like the fill pot, the swirl pot uses a fabricated cylinder to interrupt the flow of water (again, asking the coolant to jump from the entry of the tank to the exit of the tank) but uniquely places a notched entry/ exit tube that wraps the tanks body in different positions. The wrapped entry/ exit design introduces a swirl or vortex that centralizes any micro-bubbles or air pockets created from things like water pump cavitation, steam pockets, and/ or boiling as water moves through the block and cylinder head. The induced swirl increases the time the coolant is in the cylinder, increasing the potential for air to rise and collect. Additionally, the entry is placed as high as possible (for each given design) and the exit is placed as low as possible, for each applications... further decreasing the chance that air will move on. Like the fill pot, the swirl pot offers a small bump in volume as well as the ability to add sensor bungs and/ or accessory ports.
Q: Which swirl pot or fill pot is scatter shield friendly?
- A: None. Unfortunately there is no consistency in the design/ manufacturing of scatter shields (just like turbo manifolds) and I cannot list any products as compatible. If you have the need for one of my products... you can either communicate the information I need or send me your scatter shield (recommended) so I can make something.
- A: There is no wrong choice here, its entirely up to you and what you want to see under the hood. The domestic option was the only option up until 2017. The import option was added as a result of people complaining that Japanese style radiator caps couldn't be used. Note that the domestic option uses a larger 1/8" NPT thread for the overflow port and the import option uses a smaller 1/16" NPT thread.
- A: I offer two radiator cap bungs and depending which one you selected, you can either buy a matching cap from me or ask your local auto parts store for a late 70's Chevy C10 Pickup w/ a 454 (domestic version) or an 88'-91' Civic/ CRX (import version) cap.
- A: Yes. All filler necks and fill pots require an overflow. Most of my swirl pots also require an overflow, but I do make a more race inspired swirl pot that does not use an overflow; it does however use a header tank, so regardless of the type you end up buying... you will need two tanks.
Q: What is a plinth?
- A: A plinth is basically a second layer of material that is welded to the tank. The plinth goes between the tank and the mounting bracket. Not only does this double the wall thickness... but it also spreads the load of the bracket over a wider area, reducing the chance of the bracket pulling out of the tank under stress.
Q: What is a tank accessory bung?
- A: A tank accessory bung can be a female threaded bung, a male flare bung, or a standard hose barb bung used to mount such things as a temp sensor or pressure sensor... or connect things such as a water cooled turbo or waste gate. These are just examples.
Q: What is a water neck sensor port?
- A: A water neck sensor port is exactly what it is. A port... on the neck that allows you to screw in a 1/8" NPT sensor! The most common use of this option, is the OEM single prong temp sensor for the cluster on early Honda's. Aftermarket temp and pressure sensors are also common when adding them to the tank is not desirable.
Q: Which is better, a filler neck, a fill pot, or a swirl pot?
- A: Though there are progressive benefits, the most important thing that needs to be considered is your budget. Next, ask yourself if it will fit the space you have. Doesn't really matter which is better if you don't have the budget or the room! All three allow you to fill the cooling system... but each one has additional benefits and is a matter of good, better, best.
Q: How do I know if the outlet of the TracTuff water neck, filler neck, fill pot, swirl pot will work with my original hose?
Q: I don't care for the direction that my current water neck outlet points... can you make me something slightly different?
- A: Yes. Every fabricated product listed on this website is MADE TO ORDER. Small changes can be made without affecting the cost. Please email me with your specific needs.
Q: How do I know which connection type I need when there are three are offered?
- A: There is only one correct choice and that is dependent on what type of hose you are using or plan on using. Std Hose refers to traditional rubber or silicon hose. -16 male flare refers to AN hose assemblies that use a male/ female screw together hose. Wiggins refers to special types of AN hose assemblies that use a male/ female slip connection and locking clasp.
Water Bypass Adapter
Q: What is the thread size?
- A: The water bypass adapter has a 1/2 NPT (National Pipe Thread) port.
Q: How do I seal the water bypass to the cylinder head?
- A: The TracTuff product uses a high-temp silicone o-ring to make a positive seal against the cylinder head. I do not recommend the addition of Hondabond or any other type of RTV sealants.
Q: How do I seal the water bypass fitting?
- A: All pipe type threads should use some type of sealing paste or Teflon tape. If you choose Teflon tape, know that there is a right and wrong way to wrap it; if you are unsure if you've been doing it right, I recommend watching this quick video. Also, it is imperative that you DO NOT try and drive the fitting into the female thread until the male thread is no longer visible. Generally a turn or two past hand tight is all that is needed... any more and you run the risk of damaging the receiving part.
A: It is very likely that the hose on your motor is swollen/ stretched and looser than what a new Genuine Honda hose would be. An old hose will make the small difference of metric hose to SAE fitting much worse and I recommend replacing the hose if the supplied worm clamp does not create a good seal. For the record... 5/8" = 15.875 mm and the OD of the original nipple was 16.9mm. That's a difference of 1.025mm (0.040354331") or .5125mm (0.020177165") all the way around the hoses ID. That' less than the thickness of a credit card!
Electric Water Pump Conversion
- A: Yes. I have personally used them on several of my personal vehicles without issue. Driven in LA traffic for years and have even exceeded the rated hours of the pump. I trust the parts I choose to sell but install plays a role in the life of the product, so know what you are doing and don't cut corners.
- A: The ribbed pulley SOHC D and DOHC B series are the most commonly used but only use 4 of the 6 crank pulley grooves. The D17 is a popular choice because it uses all 6 of the crank pulley grooves. The F20C/ F22C is quickly becoming the go to alternator due to its high-output, 6 pulley grooves, and clockwise rotation but it requires additional effort that is covered under the product page.
- A: Depends on what your plans are for the vehicle. Drag race engines don't need them because the engines generally don't run for an extended periods of time. Street and endurance engines usually benefit from one because the water/ coolant moves through the radiator too quickly, greatly reducing the heat exchanger's efficiency.
- A: The belt is decided by the crank pulley and alternator pulley diameter. Due to the various diameters, the belt is not a one size fits all type of thing. I offer two belts that work for a majority of the combo's but I have been told that they do not work for some combos (customers could not articulate the details of their combo). Either purchase what I offer and send it back if it doesn't work... or handle this simple task on your own, by measuring the length once your combo has been installed.
Remote Oil Filter Block Adapter
- A: No, the block adapters mounting bolt has a male thread and most of the oem oil coolers leave a male thread for the oil filter to spin onto.
- A: Yes, simply remove the large bolt that holds the oem oil cooler in place and disconnect the two coolant lines. There are a few ways you can choose to delete the coolant lines, but I think these are the best solution out.
- A: The 3/8" NPT port is actually an oil passage machined into the adapter, to get clean oil where the outlet port intersects it. Call it an oil galley. I just decided to thread the port so you can use it. The really cool thing about this port... is that the oil is CLEAN! Most adapters I have touched over time, tap into the dirty oil side because its easy; fine if you only want to take pressure or temperature readings, but absolutely terrible if you are trying to lubricate something.
Remote Oil Filter Mount
- A: No, this is truly a universal part. I have sold these to guys with boats, sand rails, hot rods, and imports; I cant even wrap my head around the concept of finding a single place in an engine bay that works for EVERYBODY and then stocking 50 pcs for each application. The mount has a generic three bolt pattern and requires a measly 3.00" x 4.00" flat surface.
- A: No. The triangle mounting bracket can be mounted to the round filter mount body two ways (one bolt up or two bolts up) and the actual assembly can be mounted in any direction your heart desires.
- A: The filters mounting stud is a Genuine Honda piece that provides you with an M20 x 1.50 thread. I designed the oil filter area around the popular S2000 filter but you can use anything with a M20 x 1.50 thread, a 57.15mm (2.25") o-ring/ gasket ID, and max body diameter of 80mm (3.15").
- A: No. For me... and many like me, its just good peace of mind. Regardless of the ECU's command, the VTC will be mechanically limited to the advance you selected.
- A: I don't know. I don't give out advice or recommendations; which one to use is entirely up to you or your engine builder. Unless you are willing to take the advice of some guy on the internet... I strongly recommend that you pick up my k series claying kit, and clay your engine so you know what clearance you do and don't have.
- A: The limiter does not stay in place, it is limited by its length to not be able to move in a way that its can jamb up the movement, but it does move freely. depending on where the cell is with the engine at rest, the limiter with either fall to the outer portion of the cell (if it is on the bottom half) or the center portion of the cell (if it is on the top half). As soon as the gear is in motion, centrifugal force actually locates the pin exactly where it needs to be, to work.
Main Girdle Saddle Plug
Q: What is it?
- A: Its essentially a plug; a plug for a hole in the main girdle that is not threaded. The hole is left unaddressed when swapping from a balance shaft style pump to either a Type S or S2000 oil pump. Some of these holes are threaded... some are not. This product is for those that are not.