Thank you for your interest in TracTuff products and/ or services! If you are on this page, I assume you have questions about the product, its options, or how to buy. The questions asked and answered here are a collection from years past and I expect it to grow in time. If you have a specific question that isn't answered in the products description, nor covered here, please send that question to me in an email. If its used... I'll send you a coupon code for a future purchase or if you are a repeat customer, you can ask for a credit that can be accumulated (no limits).
Q: Where are you located?
- A: Upland, California.
Q: Do you work on vehicles?
- A: No, not at this time.
Q: Do you allow "Will Call" order pick ups?
- A: No, not at this time.
Q: Do you take phone calls?
- A: No, not normally. The business requires that I stay as productive as possible and phone calls are a constant disruption. We will not answer the phone unless a call was scheduled. I apologize but I am a one man operation and I must regulate how much customer service I can give and when I can give it. If you have read the FAQ's and/ or the product(s) description and you still need help, you can submit an email. If I deem that it is best to speak over the phone, I will volunteer my number and we can arrange a time to talk.
Q: What are your business hours?
- A: My official hours are 7:30am to 5:30pm PST, Monday through Friday. Despite social media activity, these are the only hours customers should EXPECT answers to phone calls, texts, emails, direct messages, and/ or personal messages. I am a husband and father to three and have a very busy life outside of work. If you get a response after hours or on weekends... consider yourself lucky! This is an exception and NOT a standard. Understand that I have a social life too, and just because you see that I am active on social media does NOT mean you are entitled to any type response during off hours.
Q: What is the shipping cutoff?
- A: First Class and Priority orders must be submitted by 12:00 noon PST (11:00am for Express) to leave the same day. Most non-fabricated products are on the shelf and ready to ship, only a few fabricated items fall into this category, so if its welded... expect to be put on a wait list. As of 1/4/21 I am shipping Monday's, Wednesday's, and Friday's.
Q: Where is my tracking number?
- A: Tracking numbers are automatically emailed to the email address you have on file with PayPal, when I print the shipping label. I do not send tracking emails manually, so be sure that the email address you have on file with PayPal is good. If you did not see an email come through... check your spam or junk folder.
Q: What is the current wait for fabricated or custom parts?
- A: ETA's constantly change... I strongly recommend that you inquire at the time you are placing your order. In 2020 the average wait fluctuated between 4-6 weeks.
Q: Do you make custom parts?
- A: Yes, I make custom parts using items found on the website, quite regularly. I am only interested in jobs/ products that are consistent with what I do... so if you can think something up that uses stuff I already make, I'm very much interested. My Instagram account shows many universal and non Honda/ Acura products if you would like to browse for inspiration. Many of those products will likely never make it onto the website.
Materials and Finishes
Q: What grade of aluminum is used?
- A: All materials used in the manufacturing and fabrication of TracTuff products are US milled 6061, 6061-T6, or 5052. 5052 is used wherever you see sheet aluminum bent.
Q: What kind of corrosion protection is used?
- A: I do NOT anodize, plate, powder coat, or cerakote parts. The majority of the parts I sell are fabricated and subject to a lead time; a lead time that many of you are barely patient enough for. Working with outside companies that provide those services has not gone well (historically) and I'm simply not interested in the issues that come with being the middle man.
But honestly, the two worst parts about offering these services...
- Asking customers (you) for additional time beyond the time it takes to produce the product, hoping the company I am doing business with holds true to their ETA, and not being harassed about where the parts are.
- It introduces an opportunity for customers to complain about the color, the texture, and any flaws. Very few things are more irritating than being stuck in the middle.
Q: What can I do to protect the product?
- A: You can either let the product(s) naturally oxidize over time or you anodize, plate, powder coat, or cerakote the parts yourself. If you like the RAW machined look... you can preserve that look by lightly spraying the parts with WD40 and wiping them down with a dedicated dry micro-fiber rag. You can also apply WD40 to a clean micro-fiber rag and wipe the product down.
- A: A filler neck is just a water neck that has a fabricated vertical filler tube with a radiator cap bung welded to it. Filler necks are popular inexpensive additions to cooling systems that either don't have a fill point or where the fill point is NOT the highest point in the cooling system.
- A: A fill pot is just a fancier version of the filler neck. Instead of a vertical tube being welded to the water necks horizontal outlet, a cylinder is fabricated, which interrupts the flow of water (essentially asking the coolant to jump from the entry of the tank to the exit of the tank) which slightly improves the products ability to intercept and collect passing air. The small bump in volume as well as the ability to add sensor bungs and/ or accessory ports is a nice bonus. Many like the price point and flexibility of moving the outlet to suite their needs.
- A: A swirl pot is a much fancier version of the fill pot. Like the fill pot, the swirl pot uses a fabricated cylinder to interrupt the flow of water (again, asking the coolant to jump from the entry of the tank to the exit of the tank) but uniquely places a notched entry/ exit tube that wraps the tanks body in different positions. The wrapped entry/ exit design introduces a swirl or vortex that centralizes any micro-bubbles or air pockets created from things like water pump cavitation, steam pockets, and/ or boiling as water moves through the block and cylinder head. The induced swirl increases the time the coolant is in the cylinder, increasing the potential for air to rise and collect. Additionally, the entry is placed as high as possible (for each given design) and the exit is placed as low as possible, for each applications... further decreasing the chance that air will move on. Like the fill pot, the swirl pot offers a small bump in volume as well as the ability to add sensor bungs and/ or accessory ports.
Q: Which swirl pot or fill pot is scatter shield friendly?
- A: Unfortunately there is no consistency in the design/ manufacturing of scatter shields (just like turbo manifolds) and I currently only make one that is compatible. I do make other products that will work; you can visit the page that has grouped all those products together or you can commission me to make something custom.
Q: Which radiator cap bung should I order where two are offered?
- A: Domestic cap bungs have been discontinued and I now only refer to them for those that may may have purchased a product when they were available and/or are buying something second hand. The domestic option uses a large cap with a large hole and a large 1/8" NPT thread for the overflow port. The import option uses a small cap with a small hole and a small 1/16" NPT thread.
Q: Which radiator cap does TracTuff products recommend?
- A: Domestic cap bungs have been discontinued and I now only refer to them for those that may may have purchased a product when they were available and/or are buying something second hand. If you own a product with the domestic cap bung, ask your local auto parts store for a late 70's Chevy C10 Pickup w/ a 454 engine. If you own a product with an import cap bung, ask your local auto parts store for an 88'-91' Civic/ CRX cap.
Q: Do I still need to use a traditional coolant overflow?
- A: Yes. All filler necks and fill pots require an overflow. Most of my swirl pots also require an overflow unless you are considering the more race inspired swirl pot that works with an expansion/ header tank.
Q: Which overflow port do I use if I have multiple radiator caps in my system?
- A: I recommend plugging the port on the cap bung that is lowest. As the system expands and contracts, you want any air to be pushed out first, and then the fluid. As the system cools, you want the expanded fluid to be pulled back into the highest point.
Q: What is the overflow ports thread size?
- A: Domestic cap bungs have been discontinued and I now only refer to them for those that may may have purchased a product when they were available and/or are buying something second hand. The domestic option uses a 1/8" NPT and the import option uses a 1/16" NPT thread.
Q: What is a plinth?
- A: A plinth is basically a second layer of material that is welded to the tank. The plinth goes between the tank and the mounting bracket. Not only does this double the wall thickness... but it also spreads the load of the bracket over a wider area, reducing the chance of the bracket pulling out of the tank under stress.
Q: What is a tank accessory bung?
- A: A tank accessory bung can be a female threaded bung, a male flare bung, or a standard hose barb bung used to mount such things as a temp sensor or pressure sensor... or connect things such as a water cooled turbo or waste gate. These are just examples.
Q: What is a water neck sensor port?
- A: A water neck sensor port is exactly what it is. A port... on the neck that allows you to screw in a 1/8" NPT sensor! The most common use of this option, is the OEM single prong temp sensor for the cluster on early Honda's. Aftermarket temp and pressure sensors are also common when adding them to the tank is not desirable.
Q: Which is better, a filler neck, a fill pot, or a swirl pot?
- A: Though there are progressive benefits, the most important thing that needs to be considered is your budget. Next, ask yourself if it will fit the space you have. Doesn't really matter which is better if you don't have the budget or the room! All three allow you to fill the cooling system... but each one has additional benefits and is a matter of good, better, best.
Q: How do I know if the outlet of the TracTuff water neck, filler neck, fill pot, swirl pot will work with my original hose?
Q: I don't care for the direction that my current water neck outlet points... can you make me something slightly different?
- A: Yes. Every fabricated product listed on this website is MADE TO ORDER. Small changes can be made without affecting the cost. Please email me with your specific needs.
Q: How do I know which connection type I need when there are three are offered?
- A: There is only one correct choice and that is dependent on what type of hose you are using or plan on using. Std Hose refers to traditional rubber or silicon hose. -16 male flare refers to AN hose assemblies that use a male/ female screw together hose. Wiggins refers to special types of AN hose assemblies that use a male/ female slip connection and locking clasp.
Water Bypass Adapter
Q: What is the port thread size?
- A: The water bypass adapter has a 1/2 NPT (National Pipe Thread) port.
Q: How do I seal the water bypass to the cylinder head?
- A: The TracTuff product uses a high-temp silicone o-ring to make a positive seal against the cylinder head. The o-ring goes directly against the cylinder head. I do not recommend the addition of Hondabond or any other type of RTV sealants, this is completely unnecessary!
Q: How does the water bypass adapter seal the 2nd. hole on the cylinder head?
- A: The 2nd. hole is an EGR passage. If you are using this product... that means you have either unknowing deleted EGR or your engine never had it, the passage does nothing, and therefore does not require being sealed.
Q: How do I seal the water bypass fitting?
- A: All pipe type threads should use some type of sealing paste or Teflon tape. If you choose Teflon tape, know that there is a right and wrong way to wrap it; if you are unsure if you've been doing it right, I recommend watching this quick video. Also, it is imperative that you DO NOT try and drive the fitting into the female thread until the male thread is no longer visible. Generally a turn or two past hand tight is all that is needed... any more and you run the risk of damaging the receiving part.
A: It is very likely that the hose on your motor is swollen/ stretched and looser than what a new Genuine Honda hose would be. An old hose will make the small difference of metric hose to SAE fitting much worse and I recommend replacing the hose if the supplied worm clamp does not create a good seal. For the record... 5/8" = 15.875 mm and the OD of the original nipple was 16.9mm. That's a difference of 1.025mm (0.040354331") or a gap of .5125mm (0.020177165") all the way around the hoses ID. That' less than the thickness of a credit card!
A: The 1/8" sensor port is an 1/8" NPT sensor port that will accept a sensor with a 1/8" NPT thread. The most common use of this option is the OEM single prong temp sensor for the cluster on early "Golden Era" Honda's. Aftermarket temp and pressure sensors' are also common.
Electric Water Pump Conversion
- A: Yes. I have personally used them on several of my personal vehicles without issue. Driven in LA traffic for years and have even exceeded the rated hours of the pump. I trust the parts I choose to sell but install plays a role in the life of the product, so know what you are doing and don't cut corners.
- A: The ribbed pulley SOHC D and DOHC B series are the most commonly used but only use 4 of the 6 crank pulley grooves. The D17 is a popular choice because it uses all 6 of the crank pulley grooves. The F20C/ F22C is quickly becoming the go to alternator due to its high-output, 6 pulley grooves, and clockwise rotation but it requires additional effort that is covered under the product page.
- A: Depends on what your plans are for the vehicle. Drag race engines don't need them because the engines generally don't run for an extended periods of time. Street and endurance engines usually benefit from one because the water/ coolant moves through the radiator too quickly, greatly reducing the heat exchanger's efficiency.
- A: The belt is decided by the crank pulley and alternator pulley diameter. Due to the various diameters, the belt is not a one size fits all type of thing. I offer two belts that work for a majority of the combo's but I have been told that they do not work for some combos (customers could not articulate the details of their combo). Either purchase what I offer and send it back if it doesn't work... or handle this simple task on your own, by measuring the length once your combo has been installed.
Remote Oil Filter Block Adapter
- A: No, the TracTuff block adapter mounting bolt has a male thread and most of the OEM oil coolers leave a male thread (stud) for the oil filter to spin onto so there is no way to install it.
- A: If we are talking Honda/ Acura motors...yes. Simply remove the large bolt that holds the OEM oil cooler in place, disconnect, and plug the two coolant lines and your done! The block will have an M22 x 1.50 thread. Any other application(s) will require you to do the research.
- A: If we are talking Honda/ Acura motors...yes. Simply remove the stud and the block will have an M22 x 1.50 thread. Any other application(s) will require you to do the research.
- A: The 3/8" NPT port is actually an oil passage/ galley machined into the adapter, to get clean oil where the outlet port intersects it. The port is threaded so it can be plugged, but you can choose not to use the plug, buy a port adapter and either install a sensor or send clean oil to something. That's right, I said CLEAN! Most adapters I have touched over the years, tap into the dirty oil side because its easy, which is fine if you only want to take pressure or temperature readings, but absolutely terrible if you are trying to lubricate something.
Remote Oil Filter Mount
- A: No, this is truly a universal part. I have sold these to guys with boats, sand rails, hot rods, and imports; I cant even wrap my head around the concept of finding a single place in an engine bay that works for EVERYBODY and then stocking 50 pcs for each application. The mount has a generic three bolt pattern and requires a measly 3.00" x 4.00" flat surface.
- A: No. The triangle mounting bracket can be mounted to the round filter mount body two ways (one bolt up or two bolts up) and the actual assembly can be mounted in any direction your heart desires.
- A: Yes. As mentioned above; the assembly can be mounted in any direction your heart desires. However, if you mount the filter at any angle between 7 o'clock and 5 o'clock (so... the filter being the hour hand and in any position from 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 o'clock) I STRONGLY urge you to use a one-way check valve (rated for oil) as close to the "OUT" port of the block adapter as possible. Do NOT rely on the filters anti drain-back feature to keep oil in the feed line. Dry starts can be damaging and the empty hose and filter will take longer to prime every time you start.
- A: The filters mounting stud is a Genuine Honda piece that provides you with an M20 x 1.50 thread. I designed the oil filter area around the popular S2000 filter but you can use anything with a M20 x 1.50 thread, a 57.15mm (2.25") o-ring/ gasket ID, and max body diameter of 80mm (3.15").
- A: No. For me... and many like me, its just good peace of mind. Regardless of the ECU's command, the VTC will be mechanically limited to the advance you selected.
- A: I don't know. I don't give out advice or recommendations; which one to use is entirely up to you or your engine builder. Unless you are willing to take the advice of some guy on the internet... I strongly recommend that you pick up my k series claying kit, and clay your engine so you know what clearance you do and don't have.
- A: The limiter does not stay in place, it is limited by its length to not be able to move in a way that its can jamb up the movement, but it does move freely. depending on where the cell is with the engine at rest, the limiter with either fall to the outer portion of the cell (if it is on the bottom half) or the center portion of the cell (if it is on the top half). As soon as the gear is in motion, centrifugal force actually locates the pin exactly where it needs to be, to work.
Main Girdle Saddle Plug
Q: What is it?
- A: Its essentially a plug; a plug for a hole in the main girdle that is not threaded. The hole is left unaddressed when swapping from a balance shaft style pump to either a Type S or S2000 oil pump. Some of these holes are threaded... some are not. This product is for those that are not.